Culture Matters

DARA E HEALY

'From the early 1960s through the mid-eighties, At Home with Sylvia Hunt…involved ingredients like eddoes, cassava, and dasheen, coconut in all mediums (from liquid and jelly to shredded chunks), breadfruit (fried, roasted, or served in flavourful sauces), plantain, pigeon peas, and local vegetables cooked down with salted cod or pig foot.'

- Patrice Yursik

ONCE AGAIN, global realities are forcing us to reconsider our relationship with food. In 2022, conversations about food security are no longer a preoccupation of developing nations. Drought, water pollution and inequitable access to healthy food are the focus of conversations now taking place between leaders of the wealthier nations on our planet.

At home, it seems global food instability is encouraging wider interest in farming and cooking with local ingredients. It is reported that thousands attended the recent Agri-Investment Forum and Expo, eager to experience and understand how to incorporate local alternatives into their daily diet. As the international environment becomes more unstable, is it possible that the sinister reign of foreign fast food in our country is nearing its end?

As a nation, we experienced other difficult periods related to food. During the war years, food was rationed, as shipments of staples such as flour became more difficult. In fact, the 'shortage of flour gave rise to some of the most blatant forms of profiteering.' For example, shopkeepers began selling only sandwiches rather than loaves of bread. At one point, plots in the Queen's Park Savannah were even offered as wartime gardens.

But according to the calypsonian, the real problem with rationing was corruption. Executor registered the disgust of the people when he sang: 'The Government food distribution/Has reached a scandalous situation/If they just give me the authority/I'd settle this matter immediately…And then I'd appoint a board/What to do? To control the Control Board.'

In the immediate post-war period, independence movements intensified. The Pan-African movement agitated for self-determination for peoples of African heritage. Politics and survival became intertwined as, in the Caribbean, hopes for collective prosperity were placed on a federation of Caribbean nations. In 1960, Dr Eric Williams, the new head of government, led a march to demand the return of Chaguaramas from the Americans. Woodford Square became a centre of learning, as 'the Doc' delivered speeches which located TT in the global movements for change.

The national television station was critical to the mood of national pride. TTT (Trinidad and Tobago Television) started in 1962 and At Home with Sylvia Hunt began airing not long after.

Ms Hunt also owned an eating establishment on Frederick Street where the food was unapologetically local. In those days, we would have enjoyed fruits that are hardly seen any more, such as balata, downs and caimite or star apple.

Today, we are known for our innovation in food. Inspired by our many cu